The sun is coming soon. Along with the benefits of warm weather and spending more time outside, sunscreen worries and misunderstandings are back as usual. As news reports trickle in and clickbait headlines shout apocalyptic predictions, the effort to distinguish fact from fiction has become an annual ritual.
The good news is that more and more fresh research is appearing as more individuals become aware of the value of sunscreen and its potential drawbacks.
As an illustration, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) presented a proposal for new sunscreen regulations in February 2019. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency was urged in a study from the National Academies in 2022 to examine the active components in sunscreen, their role in harming aquatic habitats, and how prospective changes in recommendations would impact usage and public health. Additionally, the nonprofit advocacy group Environmental Working Group (EWG) published its 16th Annual Guide to Sunscreens in May 2022.
The bad news is that the majority of the more than 1,800 sunscreens examined by the latest EWG analysis did not offer appropriate protection or contained compounds that the FDA has not yet deemed safe and effective. In contrast to Europe, where sunscreens are governed similarly to beauty products and where the government has allowed the use of 27 active sunscreen components, in the United States, the FDA only permits the use of 16 active compounds at this time. Twelve more active ingredients, including oxybenzone and octinoxate, were recently identified by the FDA to require additional testing before they are judged safe. Two active ingredients, PABA and trolamine salicylate, are not recognized as safe and effective. The good news is that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are two substances that have been approved as both safe and efficient. These are regarded as physical blocking elements, and sunscreens labeled “mineral” or “physical” often contain them.
1. Read the Label First
It can be extremely stressful to read a list of substances that are difficult to understand, let alone pronounce. What are the most important considerations then? According to Joshua Zeichner, MD, the director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital’s department of dermatology in New York City, “look for sunscreen that’s labeled broad-spectrum and has an SPF of at least 30.” This indicates that it offers protection from UVB and UVA rays.
Doctors advise at least 30 SPF levels, however the EWG reports that products with high SPF claims are on the rise and frequently deceptive. One issue is that the SPF rating on product labels only applies to UVB defense. The most deadly form of skin cancer, melanoma, is caused by ultraviolet A rays, which is why a sunscreen with an excessively high SPF may not sufficiently protect skin.
High SPF creams, according to the FDA, can also deceive consumers into believing they are totally shielded from sunburn and long-term skin harm. People may mistakenly believe that spending more time in the sun is safe, which leads to increased ultraviolet exposure rather than decreased UV exposure.
2. Learn the Pros and Cons of Mineral and Chemical Sunscreens
There are numerous more considerations in addition to SPF when it comes to shielding yourself and your family from UV rays. The solution, according to some supporters of clean beauty, is straightforward: Opt for a mineral sunscreen rather a chemical one. Though not everybody concurs.
What’s the distinction? “Mineral sunscreens contain zinc oxide alone or in combination with titanium dioxide,” claims Dr. Zeichner. “By reflecting UV light, they create a shield over the skin’s surface and shield the skin from damage. They frequently leave a white tint on the skin and are chalkier. Sunscreens made of chemicals contain substances that absorb UV rays and stop it from accessing the skin. They completely sink into the skin, but those with sensitive skin may experience irritation. In light of this, he claims that “mineral sunscreens have the greatest level of safety data” for people who have sensitivity.
The EWG has a strong opinion about the formulation of sunscreens. The program manager for the healthy living science team at EWG in Washington, DC, Emily Spilman, who was engaged in their Sunscreens Guide, adds, “We recommend choosing a mineral-based sunscreen.” Because these products typically provide effective sun protection and have fewer active ingredient health risks, she advises picking products formulated with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (or both) as the active ingredients.
Talking about wearing a “clean” sunscreen has gained popularity in some circles, similar to how clean eating and clean beauty have.
The issue is that the term doesn’t have a common definition. According to Zeichner, “some people define clean sunscreen as not containing chemical-blocker ingredients.” Others describe it as just using components that are organic and sustainably sourced. The EWG often advises using sunscreen made of minerals. Most dermatologists still advise using chemical sunscreens in conjunction despite these advice. The benefit of shielding the skin from damaging UV radiation outweighs any perceived risk to our health with the sunscreens that are now on the market in the United States.
The protective skin-care company Supergoop, founded in San Antonio, Texas, by Holly Thaggard prioritizes sunscreen use. According to her, depending on your skin type, both mineral and chemical sunscreens may be suitable for you. Chemical sunscreens allow for weightless, occasionally clear solutions and absorb UV rays so that your skin doesn’t. These are fantastic for working out and the beach, as well as daily wear for different skin tones. Mineral sunscreens are more benign and ideal for people with sensitive or acne-prone skin because they are composed of microscopic, white, UV-protecting particles like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both.
3. Know the Difference Between Oxybenzone and Avobenzone
Avoiding oxybenzone in sunscreens is advised by EWG. “This substance might act like estrogen. According to Spilman, oxybenzone is absorbed through the skin and may have an impact on hormone levels.
Zeichner notes that the research was based on tests in which participants covered 75% of their body with sunscreen every two hours. This is in contrast to a report published on May 6, 2019, in JAMA that expressed concern about how quickly various SPF lotions are absorbed into the skin. The majority of people wear sunscreen in the real world, so it’s unclear whether there should be cause for concern about absorption, he says. “Based on what we know today, the benefit of wearing sunscreen in protecting the skin against skin cancer and premature aging outweighs the potential risks. If anyone is concerned about the use of chemical blocker sunscreens, mineral options that contain zinc oxide alone or in combination with titanium dioxide are a great option.”
Six active sunscreen chemicals (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate) were examined in a subsequent FDA investigation. Researchers examined skin absorption from a single application as well as maximum, every-two-hour use and discovered that some of these chemicals are detectable in the body for up to 21 days. But it’s not yet apparent what this means. The study examined absorption and duration of various chemicals in the body, but not whether or not they were harmful. The advice to use sunscreen as prescribed is still valid.
4. Why Broad-Spectrum Matters in a Sunblock
According to the FDA, broad-spectrum sunscreen guards against both UVA radiation, which produce wrinkles, and UVB rays, which cause sunburn and skin cancer. The majority of individuals, according to Thaggard, “tend to think only about sunburns when it comes to sun protection.” But in reality, they’re overlooking a very different kind of damage. UVA radiation penetrate the skin’s surface much further and have been linked to both skin cancer and the development of aging symptoms. It’s crucial to keep in mind that UVA rays are available all year long at roughly the same intensity, even through clouds and windows.
5. Check Your Sunscreen’s Water Resistance
Summertime beach or pool trips make it a no-brainer to bring water-resistant sunscreen. But Dr. Westley adds that it’s also a rather wise choice for everyday use. “Water-resistant sunscreens are beneficial because the general advice is to reapply sunscreen every two hours. Since many individuals, especially in humid weather, don’t notice that they’re sweating off their sunscreen throughout the day, water-resistant sunscreens offer an added layer of protection even when people aren’t really in the water. Sunscreens that are water-resistant are marked as such.
Since 2011, the FDA has prohibited sunscreen producers from making the claims that their products are “waterproof” or “sweatproof.” Only sunscreens that have been shown to be effective in water for at least 40 or 80 minutes can have the claim “water resistant” on the label. According to FDA regulations, sunscreen labels that make a water-resistance promise must also state how long you may wear the product before you need to reapply while swimming or perspiring, according to Westley. “Just to give you that extra coverage, I recommend water resistance for up to 80 minutes.”
6. Keep the Vitamin D Factor in Mind
Since you were a child, you’ve probably heard a lot about how important vitamin D is. According to the National Institutes of Health (NIH), vitamin D is essential for maintaining overall health, including bone health, immunological function, and the management of depression. Additionally, the Skin Cancer Foundation claims that when exposed to UVB rays, your body produces vitamin D. Internal medicine practitioners will advise patients to spend 10 minutes each day in the sun to obtain vitamin D, according to Westley. We dermatologists respond, “No! It can become a bit debatable if you do that without using sun protection because you risk developing skin cancer. The agreement? “Instead, I advise patients to take vitamin D supplements because it’s so simple and affordable to do so.”
Westley favours D3 due to its better bioavailability and advises her patients to get their D levels evaluated annually. According to the NIH, you can also take vitamin D-enriched and -fortified foods including egg yolks, fatty fish like mackerel and salmon, select cheeses, and beef liver.
